When To Resole Or Discard Climbing Shoes

Climbing shoes are a climber's trusted companion, offering precision, grip, and support during ascents. However, like any essential gear, they undergo wear and tear over time. Deciding whether to resole or retire climbing shoes can be a crucial decision for climbers. Let's explore when it's time to consider resoling and when it might be best to bid adieu to your trusted pair.

But first of all, why resole at all?

1. Cost Effectiveness: All climbers know that new climbing shoes are expensive. It's one of the costs we all bare to participate in the sport. Shoes easily run over $150 per pair, but a resole can run half that! If some new rubber can hold off a new purchase, it's certainly a good way to save some money.

2. No Break In Period: You likely went through a rough break-in period when your shoes were new. Over the weeks and months of regular climbing your shoes have conformed to your feet and should feel pretty comfy by comparison. Buying new means starting the clock over again on an uncomfortable pair of shoes. But resoling is like getting a new pair that are already a perfect fit!

3. Old Styles: Maybe they just don't make your beloved pair of shoes anymore. It's a sad day when our favorites get discontinued and resoling can be just the medicine our shoes need to experience a little more time with us.

Knowing When to Resole:

1. Visible Wear and Tear: If the rubber on the shoe's sole has worn down significantly, exposing the midsole or creating minor holes, resoling can extend the shoe's life. Minor wear and thinning can often be restored through resoling.

You can see in this example that the rubber under the toe is worn thin and a couple small holes have started to form in the rand (the rubber around the toe, above the sole). It hasn't yet breached the fabric behind the rand though. This could still be repaired but further climbing should be limited until the resoling is done.

2. Maintaining Comfort: If the upper part of the shoe, including straps or closures, is in good condition and offers a snug fit, resoling can rejuvenate the shoe's performance without compromising comfort.

3. Quality Construction: High-quality climbing shoes with durable uppers and solid construction can often benefit from resoling multiple times, as long as the upper remains intact.

When It's Time to Retire:

1. Excessive Damage: If the shoe's upper has extensive damage, such as delamination, tears, or loss of structure, it might be time to retire the shoes. Resoling cannot address significant upper damage.

Once holes have formed all the way through the fabric of the toe, it becomes significantly harder to repair shoes, and likely won't be worth it at that point. Below are a pair of shoes beyond repair. These are shoes best shelved for some deep water soloing!

2. Beyond Repair: If the shoe has undergone multiple resoles or repairs and continues to show rapid deterioration or a lack of structural integrity, it might be more cost-effective and safer to invest in a new pair. Resoling adds more time to your shoes, but it's not a full second life. Wear and damage to other parts of the shoe will eventually make it pointless to add new rubber underneath.

3. Performance Compromise: When the shoe's shape or fit has significantly changed over time, affecting performance and precision, it might be wiser to retire them and opt for a new pair that better suits your climbing needs. Has the heel gotten sloppy on heel hooks? Are you having to crank the straps or laces tighter and tighter for a good fit? Are holes forming on top of the upper? These are all problems that won't be solved with a resole.

Some additional considerations and tips:

1. Resole Or Find Discounts: It's true that resoling shoes can be done for half the price of a new pair of shoes at full retail price, but there are always deals being run all over the place on climbing shoes. Online retailers, brick and mortar shops, and your own climbing gym will likely have discounts and clearance deals pop up regularly that could make a brand new pair as cheap as a resole. Stock up when your favorites are on sale!

2. Super Glue: Wait, what? If you've decided to wear your current pair into oblivion and discard them, one trick you can try is waiting until the wear is all the way through to the fabric, but not beyond it. If the damage is at the front of the toe but there's still some good rubber underneath, grab some super glue and seal up the hole. It will absorb into the fabric and stiffen up the toe, providing some stiff resistance against further damage!

   Below is a pair of freshly super glued shoes:

   

   But after a few climbs it gets sanded down into a hardened shield against further wear:

   

3. Bonus Tip: If you're always dealing with smelly climbing shoes, the tip is prevention! When you first get that shiny new pair, sprinkle the inside with THIS before you wear them for the first time. Do it for the next few wears, and then about once a week, and you'll never have that dreaded climber shoe stench!

Our recommendations:

If you're in the market for some new climbing shoes, here are a few we swear by after hours and hours of use:

Deciding between resoling and retiring climbing shoes involves assessing their condition, wear patterns, and overall structural integrity. Regular inspections and maintenance can help prolong the lifespan of climbing shoes. However, when wear becomes excessive or structural damage compromises safety and performance, retiring the shoes is the responsible choice.

Remember, the decision to resole or retire climbing shoes ultimately depends on individual preferences, the shoe's condition, and the climber's safety concerns. Invest in high-quality shoes, maintain them well, and make informed decisions regarding resoling or replacing to ensure a safe and enjoyable climbing experience.

Climb on!

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